IKEA Denver

Materials: Pax wardrobe, Valter brackets

Description: This is my closet office that is composed almost entirely from Ikea components (to include the JULES swivel chair not pictured).

Basically I took an old PAX wardrobe and cut it to fit the ends of my closet. Then I took an old tabletop (I can’t remember the name but it was made of birch plywood laminate), stained it, cut it to fit as the desktop, and braced it in place. The shelves above the desk are made from the PAX doors. The shelving below the desk has VALTER brackets.

I spend a great deal of time working from here and it serves me very well!

See more of Aubrick57’s Pax workstation.

~ Aubrick57

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Materials: BESTÅ Bench, BESTÅ Tofta, Integral Hinge, Integral Damper, BESTÅ Legs

Description:
I recently won a new Panasonic 50″ VT25 and Panasonic DMP-BD350 3D Blu-ray player through Panasonic. Well, with the newly added TV I decided to change my Ikea Benno Black/Brown stand and go with something cleaner and simpler to conceal my components.

I enjoyed the small form factor of the BESTÅ Bench (120 cm x 26 cm); however, it only came with a drawer option. This would clearly not work for a home theater scenario. Therefore, I decided to attempt my own Ikea Hack.

BESTÅ Bench - Black/Brown
Article #501.021.95
$75.00

BESTÅ TOFTA - Gloss Black (x2)
Drawer Front
Article #101.865.97
$35.00 / per = $70.00

Integral Hinge - 2 pack (x2)
$12.00 / per = $24.00
Article #701.323.75

Integral Door Damper - 2 pack (Optional)
$7.00
Article #801.262.13

BESTÅ Leg Adjustable - 2 pack
$14.00 / per = $28.00
Article #501.341.82

Total = $204.00 + Tax

I began building the BESTÅ Bench until I reached the point of having to assemble the bottom of the bench.

At this point, I drilled 1½” holes through each backing piece. Since the Bench’s purpose is home theater, there will be cables going between each cavity. I also wasn’t keen on drilling through the ~1″ thick center piece, I figured it’d be easier to get 1/8″ backing down the road if I ever changed the purpose of the Bench; so I stuck to my original route of drilling the backing.

After drilling the lower, central corner of each backing piece, I gave each hole a quick file. You could easily acquire the same results with sandpaper, as well.

I also debated the idea of getting a large rubber grommet to finish this off even more, but gave up as it wasn’t something easily accessible at my local Home Depot and would probably require special ordering it online. Since it’s at the back and not visible, I was content with filing it smooth.

Next we need to retrofit the hinges to the BESTÅ Bench. You’ll notice the outer side pieces of the BESTÃ… bench have 5 pre-drilled holes for the drawer rail unit. Coincidentally, the distance between the 5 holes are the same distance as the hinge piece. The only difference is that we will drill 27 mm in the from front edge of each side. There will only be 4 new holes, two top and two bottom, for each hinge.

Use a square to make sure the new holes are in-line with the pre-drilled holes. We will use a 3/16″ bit for the hinges; also, drill at a 12 mm depth. Feel free to mark your drill bit with some tape so you know when you’ve drilled deep enough.

In the image below, you can see how the hinge will position along the side. Make sure you install the Philips head locking nut thinger. (IKEA Part #114927/115264) Once the hinge is secured to the side, you will not be able to fit that piece in anymore.

Next we’ll work on retrofitting the other half of the hinge to the drawer front… Soon to be our door front. Once again, Ikea saved us some work. On the edges of the door fronts Ikea pre-drilled the doors again. You’ll need a square to draw two perpendicular lines on the outer edges of these pre-drilled holes.

Next draw diagonally from corner to corner, where this X intersects is where you will drill out of the European style hinge. With a sharp object, mark just on the other side of this X, closer to the pre-drilled holes.

Use a small bit a drill a quick pilot hole, once again 12 mm is our major number for depth.

Use a 35 mm Forstner bit and drill to the 12 mm depth. You will now begin to see how the European style hinge will fit. You will also have to widen the two pre-drilled holes that flank where you just bored out with the Fornstner bit. For this I used the 3/16″ bit, once again. This will also the two tabs that prevent the hinge from slipping to fit into their respective holes.

Completely install the hinges and attach the new doors!

Finish assembling the BESTÅ bench bottom and install the feet. At this point you can tweak the doors so they are level and symmetrical. Snap on the Integral dampers and enjoy your beautiful work!

The only adjustments I think I’ll be making in the near future, is possibly spraying the legs gloss black. In addition to this, my Harman Kardon AV Receiver is getting quite warm within the enclosed space. I am currently sourcing some cooling solutions as well as adding ventilation grills to the rear of the Bench.

I hope you enjoyed my Ikea Hack! Thank you,

- M!TCH

See more of Mitch’s BESTÅ media unit

~ Mitch Cave, Calgary, AB

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We want to point your attention to our Ikea-related project:

The idea was to build “artworks” which are replicable at a moderate cost by everyone by following the instructions we provide.

The sculptures were exhibited at the “Museo Cantonalde d’Arte” in Lugano, Switzerland.

See more here.

~ Andreas Gysin, Sidi Vanetti

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Materials: Voxnan

Description: I liked the idea of renovating my old bathroom inexpensively, so after whitewashed walls and made some minor technical editing, I thought I should have reused my old series VOXNAN.

With a jar of decoupage fund, a gel for crackling effect, one of flatting, glittering leaves and a brush, I repainted the mirror and the cabinet.

Once finished I hung the cabinet horizontally removing one door to be used to make the shelf.

A panel curtain (ANNO AMORF), properly turned into a tent packet with the application of rings, and the smallest available BILLY with his door, complete my work.

~ Stefania Santarelli, Roma

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This is really just a modification or practical application of wonderful hacks that I found on this site. I take a step further by incorporating moderate handy-man skills to turn just a few bucks of Ikea stuffs into a real slam of a home theater system.

I used the Lack long and medium shelves to build the frame, and the Lack side table to do the entertainment center. The wires go into the wall behind the TV and come out on the OTHER SIDE in my bedroom near the baseboards, travel to the far wall, then return behind the bikes, and run below the heaters all the way to the entertainment center. (A little less than 50ft of cable for each device.)

The whole home theater is no more than a 5.1 stereo with optical input, a PS3, a Wii, and a DVR hanging from brackets under a Lack side table, with some 50ft of cables running to the TV, but stashed in the wall. The TV is then framed as you like with the Lack medium and long shelves.

I should be clear that I think that any Ikea furniture in the Table/Shelf arena needs a fresh coat of paint. Ikea’s veneer will bubble quickly if you put something hot on it, or will scratch easily and look unsightly. I put a polyurethane coat of black, high-gloss enamel. (Took 30 minutes once I laid down a tarp. This coat makes it shiny, looks nicer than the stock paint, and protects it incredibly well from just about everything.

The entire project took 8-10 hours, and required the following tools:
Lack side table and Lack wall shelves
Hand Drill with bit-set
Paint, pan, tarp, roller
L-brackets, heavy copper tape, aluminum dowels. (For the side table
dry-wall saw (it’s like a really skinny hand saw that you can punch through the wall to start)
Chisel (to cut a trench in the drywall)
A HEAVY DUTY extension cord (to lay in the trench)
Spackle… lots of it, to hide all your destruction from the Super.

To do the entertainment center, use L-brackets attached to the legs, measured for the height of each component and screw them into place. You will likely find that your conmponents aren’t long enough to use the same technique for the back, so instead hang a heave copper or metal tape from the middle of the table on the sides, then drill holes and run a metal or wooden dowel across, supporting the back end. Here is a list of other things that I used from Amazon.com.

OUTLETS
2x Datacomm Electronics 45-0001-WH Gang Recessed Cable Plate (White)
Datacomm 50-3321-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Remodeling Kit with Power Outlet (White)
(It is important not to illegally, or dangerously run electrical cables behind the wall. It’s against code, and maybe mice or space rabbits will nibble on them and cause a fire, I’m still unclear. Instead install an electrical outlet where you want it. It was done like so:
1) Mark where you want your TV to go, hopefully directly above the electrical outlet near the floor (so 90s)
2) Use a box cutter and chisel to dredge out a 1/2-3/4″ deep cavity that you will run a wire in and staple into place.
3) Wire the positive and negative leads to the corresponding outlet below, and then to your new one as you set it in place.
4) Lock the box into place by following the directions like an adult. Don’t wing it, you’ll regret it.
5) Punch a hole on the other side of the wall near the floor and install a cable-hiding-wall-plate to pull the cables through.
6) Same hole-punching to bring it back across and run it along the baseboards to your entertainment center.)

CABLES
Steren RGB RCA Coupler - 3 x RCA Female to 3 x RCA Female - Plastic
RiteAV - SVGA Monitor Cable with 3.5mm Audio - 50 ft.
50 FT 3-RCA Stereo Audio Video A/V AV Cable Patch 50ft
2x HDMI M / M Cable, 50 FT / 15 M
Wii Sensor Bar Extension Cable, 50 ft
16 AWG Flat Speaker Wire 100 ft.

TIES
Zip Tie Mount, 1/2 X 1/2, 25 Pack (These are essential when dealing with long cables.)
Nylon 6/6 Self Locking Cable Ties 8″ L, 2″ (Pack of 100)

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